JBL Xtreme Charging Port Replacement

Written By: Benny Huynh

Comments: 28

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

1 - 2 hours

Introduction

This guide will show you how to remove the charging port of a JBL Xtreme. This guide requires soldering skills.

Tools

Step 1

Locate the seams next to the 'feet' on the bottom side of the device.

Step 2

Use the metal spudger to gently pry and lift the edge of the seam. The cover is held in place with plastic snaps that will make a popping noise when disengaged. !!Start with the back half, this will expose TWO Screws that need to be removed before lifting the front half.

Start with the back half, this will expose TWO Screws that need to be removed before lifting the front half.

MrMindlink - 04/10/17

Yes, the fact needs to be added that two screws need to also be removed to get the cover off. One side snaps off but the other is attached with two screws.

Terry Kraft - 17/12/17

%#*@^@. I ripped the plastic things apart. Should have red the comments first. &&^&.

brobarongg - 14/03/19

same here ;D just grabbed some glue and hope it will stick :D

Patrick Tippner - 16/06/20

Vorsichtig die Kante hochhebel, wo der Reissverschluss ist. Da ist die Hülle gesteckt. Die andere Seite hat Schrauben die man lösen sollte. Ansonsten zerstört man zu Beginn die Befestigung der einen Seite.

Roland Bürger -

Step 3

For the first part of the case: gently pull back the edges of the case rotating along the hinge opposite the opening seam illustrated in the second photo. Plastic snaps hold the cover in place.
For the second part of the case: there are 2 screws to be removed at the seam. Once removed, the case will come off completely without forcing.

Hello Where can I get a replacement cover?? Mine is damaged.

juan.rey19 - 01/07/17

Did u ever find it they sell the covers?

jorgetovar698 - 20/05/18

Careful with this step, my JBL Xtreme case was also held in place by wo little srews !

Arthur Lecharny - 10/11/17

It feels like you are “breaking” the cover, but in fact it seems to have a kind of “bending point” near the top of the cover by the exterior controls. Watch for the two screws to remove.

Terry Kraft - 17/12/17

There is two screws holding the cover at its other end beside the plastic snaps

Nader Belaid - 12/03/18

%#*@! broke one of the little snaps near the 2 screws. still holds tight though.. be careful when pulling them out. Also, don’t forget the screws

Mike - 22/04/20

Die beiden Schrauben befinden sich jeweils neben den Füßen des Geräts. (Ein Foto von den beiden Schrauben wäre sehr hilfreich!)

RTFM -

Step 4

Unscrew the six 9.75mm Phillips head screws holding the bass radiator in place.
Three of the five outer screws are indicated in the first image and the sixth inner screw is indicated in the second image.

This was the most difficult part for me. The screws are pretty tight, I needed a larger screwdriver to get them out.

Terry Kraft - 17/12/17

A PH1 or PZ1 Philips screw driver worked for me. For re- assembly it helps to place the speaker on the side with the other end facing down. That way you can exert more force. I would start with tightening all screws part way only and when they are all in place tighten them all the way (including the inner screw).

RTFM -

Achtung, die Bassstrahler sind mit dem Gehäuse über zwei “Klebedichtungen” verbunden. Diese müssen beim Zusammenbau wieder eingebaut werden.

Carsten Schultze-Hartmann - 20/09/19

Die Dichtung war bei mir nicht geklebt, sondern in die dafür vorgesehene Rille eingelegt. Sie ist mir beim Entfernen des Bassstrahlers zwar gerissen, ich konnte sie jedoch mit einem spitzen Kunststoffspachtel wieder in die Rille legen. Beim Zusammenbau muss man darauf achten, dass die Dichtung nicht herausrutscht. Am besten die Seite mit der Dichtung nach unten halten.

RTFM -

Step 5

Once the screws have been removed, the bass radiator will easily lift free.
Both radiators are identical. Repeat the above steps on the opposite radiator if necessary.

where can i buy these parts mate?

troy yerbury - 09/03/18

Where can I buy the bass radiators independently?

Daryl Duliep Hernandez - 27/05/18

Ich empfehlen, erst den 7. Schritt auszuführen. So kann anhand der Kabel feststellen welcher Bassstrahler entfernt werden muss!

I would recommend to do the 7th step first. So can determine, based on the cable, which bass radiator must be removed!

Android Robo - 08/05/19

Wo kann ich den die Ersatzteile kaufen bassstrahler und ein hochtöner???

Sven Muelle - 09/11/19

Schritt sieben zuerst ist eine grandiose Idee, erspart einiges an Nerven.

Benni Basisch - 25/01/20

die Linke Seite wie auf dem Bild ist die richtige. Dahinter findet man die Platine mit dem Anschlussstecker für den Akku. Somit sollte eigentlich 1ne Seite reichen.

Roland Bürger -

So war es auch bei mir. Nur die linke Seite (von unten gesehen), also die Seite auf der der Zug vom „Reißverschluss“ endet, wenn er geöffnet ist, muss geöffnet werden. Dann kann man sich die Demontage der anderen Seite sparen!

RTFM -

attention, il y a entre chaque radiateur et le corps principal un joint très fin, tout autour. Il n'est pas collé et se détache facilement, l faut faire attention à le déplacer le moins possible, et à ne pas l'écraser, surtout si on retourne l'enceinte pour enlever l'autre radiateur (ce qui est inutile, il n'y en a qu'un à enlever pour accéder au connecteur de la batterie

Gugu Fafa -

Step 6

Locate and disconnect the the three plugs indicated in these pictures.

Step 7

Unplug the three ports from the previous step.
A set of tweezers may be helpful to reach deeper into the device.

Step 8

Locate the three Phillips head screws inside the zipper compartment and unscrew them.
Pull the zipper panel free from the device.

Step 9

Under the zipper panel are eight more Phillips head screws. Unscrew them and carefully lift the battery cover.
Be careful not to damage the small white ribbon cable which connects the battery cover to the rest of the device.

Step 10

Unscrew the three 11.88mm Phillips head screws highlighted in the picture.

Step 11

Pull the Auxiliary board out.
There is foam covering the wires, making it difficult to remove the Auxiliary board. Take your time with this step.

hello, thanx for the great guide . i got a defekt xtreme and opened it like you write in your guide ,because my one doesn´t show any reaction when i plug power in. no charging or anything . as i opened it i saw that the capacitor on the last foto was burned out .

and than the big surprise , my auxilary board is not the same like yours . it´s 100 % a original xtreme and everything is simillar but on my bord is a 8 leg IC soldering -place. sorry for my bad english , it´s very difficult to explain . if anyone outthere can help me i send pictures from my board ,and you will be surprised that it has on the board a place for a IC ..

ch. geyer - 27/11/17

Step 12

The first image highlights the charging port.
Locate 6 metal pins highlighted in the second image and use a solder iron to disconnect the pins.

Die Ladebuchse hat nur 3 Lötstellen…!

Ihr redete von der Ladebuchse aber Lötet die 3,5mm Klinke…

llPͥeLͣ Lͫell - 16/09/19

The final two pictures are incorrect. They show the pins for the Aux in, not the Coaxial Barrel charging jack. You can tell by the cord with the foam around it. In the first pic it's on the far side of the board in comparison to the charging jack, but when flipped, it's bear it. This is incorrect. You can also tell by the protruding tips of the jack when flipped, the larger one is the charging jack, but the flipped picture shows them soldering the pins pf the smaller jack. Please update, this may be causing many people difficulty.

If you want to hire me to write these articles instead in a precise and thorough manner, please reach out in a comment.

Regards,

David

David - 14/02/20

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Benny Huynh

Member since: 15/02/17

1971 Reputation

One comment

Please I have a JBL XTREME that sparks each time I plug it. What could be the cause

morris_ugwoke - 23/12/18