Keurig K10 MINI PLUS Water Pump Replacement

Written By: Matt Bav

Comments: 13

Keurig K10 MINI PLUS Water Pump Replacement

Difficulty

Difficult

Steps

Time Required

30 - 45 minutes

Introduction

The Water Pump within the Keurig K10 MINI Plus is a deeply embedded part. Due to the nature of it being attached both to an electrical source and a water source, it is not recommended to attempt this guide without previous familiarity with both.

Tools

Step 1

Lift the cold water reserve lid up to reveal its hinge.
Using either the metal spudger or the opening tool, gently pry the plastic out of the metal axle.

Step 2

Repeat the last step on the other hinge, making sure to keep a firm grasp on the lid as it comes off to avoid dropping it.

Step 3

Remove two 9 mm Phillips #1 screws.
Avoid the top needle if at all possible. The needle may cut you and/or penetrate your skin.
The screws are located on the top of where the K-Cup would be.

you show two screws I have 2 more deeper in how do you remove them?

wevie100 - 14/10/17

My K10 had two larger screws than the photo. There were Phillips #2 head and could not be retrieved with a magnet when they inevitably fell into a tight space as they were not attracted to magnets. There was also a catch toward the back of the top cover that finally released when an upward force of sufficient force was applied to the bottom front of the cover.

In my case the pump was fine. My problem was coffee grounds in the hose blocking the flow from the pump. The grounds were in the hose shown in Step 4.

Frank M -

Step 4

Once you remove the screws, the top cover should come out.
The back of the cover is held in place by two locking tabs. To remove the cover, pull it back slightly and it should come free.
You will then want to remove these screws which are the same size.
The needle is sharp, so be careful.

On my model k10, these screws are actually slightly larger than those on step #3. So it is best to still separate them, just incase. Happy repairing~

Bernard Dolecki - 17/11/20

The top cover didn’t come off easily on mine. Once I removed the 2 screws I had to slowly lift it up from the front until it popped off. It looks like there might have been a small glue spot at the back center of the plastic edge.

jkempinger - 01/01/21

Step 5

Once you get those removed, you are going to want to pull on the hose until it pops off.
Once the hose comes off, the needle will fall out by itself.
Be careful when picking up the needle as the needle is sharp.

Step 6

Remove two 14 mm Phillips #2 screws.
Remove two 12 mm Phillips #2 screws.
Lift the arm off the assembly. This will reveal the tank hole as shown.
It is recommended that you clog the tank hole with a napkin or something similar in order to prevent small parts from falling into the heating element.

Step 7

Remove two 9.7 mm Phillips #2 screws.
Remove two 11.5 mm Phillips #2 screws.
Remove the cold water reserve arm's plug from the arm itself in order to allow access to the base screws.

Step 8

Remove two 18 mm Phillips #2 screws.
Finally, detach the arm from the cold water reserve basin.

Step 9

Pull the head assembly forward to reveal the two plastic axle points that keep the head assembly attached to the base.
There is a spring concealed by a white piece as shown.

Note that if you remove the white piece that holds the spring (highlighted in orange) that it needs to go back in the same orientation as shown in the image. If you put it in upside down, the arm assembly will not stay up by itself after reassembly. This gave me a fair amount of frustration so thought I should add it to save some the trouble.

Bernard Dolecki - 17/11/20

Step 10

Using the iFixit Opening Tool, gently pry apart the plastic head assembly piece from both the body's axles and its left to remove it.

Step 11

Remove two 14 mm Phillips #2 screws.
Remove two 12 mm Phillips #2 screws.
Screws circled in red may be hard to reach and will require a screw driver with a neck width of 5mm or less.

Step 12

Detach the seat by giving it a firm tug up.

Step 13

Flip over the device.
Remove four 11.5 mm Phillips #2 screws.

Step 14

Reposition the metal lid while keeping the heat sink attached in order to reach the screws underneath.
It is recommended that you leave the heat sink aside as it contains thermal paste.

Step 15

Remove two 11.5 mm Phillips #2 screws.
Be careful not to confuse these two screws for the ones behind them.

Step 16

Turn the device right side up again.

Step 17

Begin to pry open the front plate using the iFixit Opening Tool as shown.
Pry upwards in order to take the cover off.

This is perhaps the hardest part, the pry UPWARD is not emphasized enough. The bottom clip will not pry out until the face is elevated upwards. I'd shift it up before prying on the sides.

Alex Lipowich -

Step 18

Remove the front plate.
Be careful of the wires here.

Step 19

Remove one 9.7 mm Phillips #2 screws.

Step 20

Remove the button housing to access the buttons.
The brew buttons can be easily popped out of place by pushing inwards from the front of the unit.

Step 21

Remove two 9.7 mm Phillips #2 screws.

Step 22

Pry open the left, right, and back of the back plate by pulling out and up.
Do not be afraid to be fairly forceful when removing the back plate—it is snapped together fairly tight.

When assembling this back part together, make sure the clips underneath are secured in.

Daniel Harrison - 17/09/20

Step 23

Rotate the device to reveal the pump side.
Remove one 9.7 mm Phillips #2 screw.

Step 24

Remove the power connectors attached to the water pump.
Remove the water hose attached to the water pump.
Remove the water pump itself.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Matt Bav

Member since: 06/11/18

597 Reputation

6 comments

Great directions on how to disassemble and get at the water pump. I just can’t find where or how to order a replacement pump. Can you help?

jameslitrun - 28/01/20

I was very surprised I needed a guide to take this silly little coffee maker apart, but boy did I.

I've rebuilt entire engines that were less of a headache.

Thanks for the great write up (especially the heatsink pointer, never can find the last tube of thermal paste I bought)

Layf Ditch - 23/02/21

this is great, it helps save my Keurig K10. I was able to open it up, and clean the pump motor due to corrossion, and it works fine now.

hunter -

Thank you a lot!!! you save me too much time

gabriel patricio -

Thanks for the write-up. Keurig sure didn't make the disassembly process on this machine very intuitive!

I had a room-mate that put coffee grounds in the water receptacle and I had to completely dismantle the machine to clean it all out. The check valve was where the crud had built-up.

I found it very interesting to discover that the pump is actually an air pump that forces the water out of the heating chamber and into the coffee pod. The purpose of the loop of smaller tubing is to prevent water from being forced into the air pump.

Philip Reich -

Once I reached the end of this guide I did not see anything wrong with my K10. The pump checked out good so I started drawing and blowing through hoses myself... Finally water came out of the delivery hose!

The problem turned out to be the check-valve which was stuck or clogged because the machine sat so long without use. It was working fine when put away.

After reassembly the K10 is brewing once again! Thanks for the great Guide!

Monte87 -