PlayStation 3 Heat Sink Replacement

Written By: Walter Galan
  • Comments: 77
PlayStation 3 Heat Sink Replacement

Difficulty

Moderate

Steps

30

Time Required

30 minutes

Introduction

Use this guide to replace your PlayStation 3's heat sink. Before reattaching the heat sink, it is essential to apply a new layer of thermal paste.

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    • Use the tip of a spudger to remove the black rubber screw cover from the side of the PS3.

    • The screw cover may be underneath a warranty sticker. This sticker will change appearance, and show "VOID" after it has been removed.

    Fake repair. Real fault: How to Delid and fix the Yellow Light of Death for good (NEC TOKIN Replacement) https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-delid...

    Player -

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    • Remove the single 8.5 mm T10 Security Torx screw from the smart plate.

    How to Delid and fix the Yellow Light of Death for good (NEC TOKIN Replacement) https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-delid...

    Player -

    I need a tork screw bracket / holder A/E/B/E01- MG and security torx screw for a CECH-AO1 do u guys sell these?

    vuhx -

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    • Pull the smart plate toward the hard drive bay, then lift it off the body of the PS3.

    How to Delid and fix the Yellow Light of Death for good (NEC TOKIN Replacement) https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-delid...

    Player -

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    • Be sure to keep track of the small metal bracket loosely held in the top cover, if equipped.

    That small metal bracket/socket set up looks completely different in the ps3 I'm working on. Model: CECHK01.

    Any suggestions?

    Marcus -

    different in mine too, Model: CECHP01

    Link Adrian -

    mine does not have one at all

    ian.downard01 -

    1How to Delid and fix the Yellow Light of Death for good (NEC TOKIN Replacement) https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-delid...

    Player -

    Did not find in my CECHH01

    Philippe Morin -

    I don’t have this bracket, where I can get it ?

    Paul Bidny -

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    • Remove the following seven screws:

    • Six 52 mm Phillips screws

    • One 30 mm Phillips screw

    2 more smaller screws (don't know what size...small) just below the top middle screw and top right screw (in the picture). Look for the arrows...

    E Goo -

    can confirm, might be the backwards compatibles only

    Jordan Giese -

    This usually isn't needed as you can additionally unclip the card reader by pushing the tabs out while lifting the top, They are located at the bottom of the screw holes with the arrows pointing at them

    Kenneth Beerman -

    after you remove the screws, you may have to push a tab to take the cover off if you meet resistance on one side of the cover. Here is a link to a video that explains it, saved me lots of trouble:

    http://youtu.be/jZgekNsRB-A?t=1m54s

    ericksi33 -

    Thanks @ericksi33, this really helped me out.

    hogurt -

    1st attempt, fan loud. Ps3 lasted about 2 wks. 2nd attempt noticed very poor contact between heatsink & cpu,gpu when taking it apart. Research - Found a better way to apply thermal past. I personally disapprove of guide on this. A small bit about the size of a grain of rice in center of cpu is plenty. Clamp the heat sinks back on. Then take it apart & check contact area. Thermal paste should have spread to about the size of a quarter.(more is better. Less then a nickel size is poor contact) possibly weak clamps. Carefully applied pressure onto the cpu & gpu, pressing them into the heatsinks before clamping heatsink clamps on. Achieved greater then quarter sized thermal past spread. Fan silent in comparison & ps3 lasted about a yr. Rarely did I ever hear the fan go to high and get loud after that. About to begin my third fix on this same ps3. One of the first 80g backwards compatible. other then those notes and that this guide was for a different model ps3 (minor differences) I liked this guide. easy to follow.

    brettgomes -

    Although the battery is described as proprietary, it looks like it is the common CR2032 lithium coin battery that is used in calculators and some computers. I haven't had to replace mine but I suspect under the heatshrink cover is a battery holder which will allow the coin battery to be removed and replaced. Then wrap with electrical tape and reinstall.

    RickP -

    I tried this with the heatgun and it ruined my PS3. The CPU and GPU are NOW RUINED!!! It did not work for and made things worst!!! I sent it to a place to get reballed and they said the HEATGUN had overheated my processor and killed them!!! So think twice about doing this. Just because it is already broken, DON'T THINK YOU CAN'T MAKE IT WORST!

    georgehollyoh -

    Why would you try it with a heat gun, no were is it mentioned to do that

    Phillip Pereira -

    There are 2 additional screws to remove , front center and front left , just behind the already marked screws.

    mikentc90 -

    As mentioned and I’ll add so detail too. If you have a model with the card readers there are two more small screws that also need to be removed before moving on to the next step.

    screech -

    2How to Delid and fix the Yellow Light of Death for good (NEC TOKIN Replacement) https://gbatemp.net/threads/how-to-delid...

    Player -

    I felt more comfortable with #2 screwdrivers.

    Philippe Morin -

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    • Lift the top cover from its rear edge and rotate it toward the front of the PS3.

    • Remove the top cover.

    • There is a plastic hook located in a hole on the top back right hand side corner. Carefully push the plastic hook a bit from the rear of the machine with a spudger to release the rear right of the casing.

    Disconnect the memory card ribbon cable.

    Tobias Stockmann -

    The top would hardly budge on the left back corner and was stuck on the right back corner. There is a plastic hook that needs to be unfastened to lift the top off. It is located in a hole on the top back corner on the right hand side, so the corner straight across the on off button. Just gently push the plastic hook a bit front the rear of the machine with a spudger. It gives easily and the top will be free to lift off after that.

    cornellg -

    I can confirm on CECHH01.

    Philippe Morin -

    Some more details here as well.

    The newer model without SACD support appears to have added that clip to the back right that needs to be pressed to release the top shell.

    If equipped with the card reader you can either have to disconnect the ribbon cable or unclip the reader from the top shell after lifting it up to get finger or tool in there to push clip to side and release reader from top shell. Note: if you failed to remove the card reader screws in the previous step these clips can break.

    screech -

    The original 60GB with the CF card reader on the front has a button protruding out. This will make it difficult to remove the top. You need to unscrew the memory card reader so it can come out easily.

    Brian Caines -

    Wow, this needs more attention. This isn't explained in any disassembly guide I've seen. You also need to be cognizant of the card reader cable when you're lifting off the lid.

    SolidSonicTH -

    I didn't have trouble during disassembly, but reassembly was tough. I loosened the card reader screws by 1 turn and used a small gauge wire to lasso the button and ran it through the CF hole.

    Carl Garner -

    this really needs to be added to the guide i was struggling with mine trying to figure out why it wouldn't lift up. it was the CF reader button

    Doji ← -

    But I don't have a spudger

    Desi -

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    • Disconnect the Blu-ray power cable from the motherboard.

    • Pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.

    I would add… “Be careful taking these type of connectors apart” …. its easy to pull the entire thing off the motherboard and rip pads !

    The pulled pads can be replaced but its extra work you don’t need :-) and requires equipment and skill to do and cold require jumper wires.

    asears -

    Pull the cables gently, the plug will come out of the socket. The plug is encased by the socket.

    A K -

    That’s also what I did.

    Philippe Morin -

    My PS3 is the CECHL01 and I had to remove the PSU to get to the disk drive ribbon cable.

    Benjamin Burden -

    I mistakenly ripped the whole thing out... I do not know where to begin on repairing it.

    Tom Gillis -

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    • Lift the Blu-ray drive from the edge nearest the power supply and rotate it away from the chassis enough to access its ribbon cable.

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    • Use your fingernail to flip up the retaining flap on the Blu-ray ribbon cable socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the ribbon cable out of its socket.

    • Remove the Blu-ray drive from the PS3.

    • If replacing the Blu-ray drive, transfer the power cable to your new drive.

    Not all systems look like this, some have tape instead of the flap.

    gatewaynomad -

    Every system that I have seen has had the ZIF connector, while some had tape over the connection as well. If your connectors are taped, be sure to remove the tape, then proceed with undoing the ZIF connector.

    Brett Hartt -

    The version 2 systems baseboard PCB started switching to the new narrow 24 pin ZIF header/ribbon and Blu-Ray drive connection.

    You should not attempt to detach the taped ribbon cable from the drive end first as described above for the older wide 60 pin ribbons. You must remove the drive and ribbon as one unit to protect the fragile ZIF sockets.

    The slimmer fragile ribbon is taped to the drive housing to afford a more secure ZIF connection. The opposite base connection is slightly under the PSU.

    continued

    shadetree -

    From continued

    One should firstly remove the PSU: Disconnect the drive power cable as described above. Unscrew the 5 (3-P1 2-P2) PSU mounting screws. Now leaving the power cables attached, lift the PSU off the power baseboard PCB pins and move over slightly to access the baseboard drive cable end ZIF. Release the ZIF latch and slide the entire (drive and ribbon) strait away from the baseboard ZIF to disconnect.

    After the complete drive/ribbon removal, you can carefully remove the restraining tape on the bottom of the drive to release the ribbon ZIF, then remove the 24 pin ribbon from the drive logic PCB.

    Install in reverse order making sure to add new tape to secure the ribbon to the drive.

    shadetree -

    I needed to remove the PSO completely to reach the baseboard drive cable end ZIF. To do that disconnect the power and data (I assume) cables and then pull the unit straight up. To longish prongs are heading straight up into it from the baseboard and it is a bit tight, so gently pull until it's clear.

    cornellg -

    If you are replacing the Blu-ray drive, you must use the same daughterboard that came with your PlayStation 3. The daughterboard is paired to the motherboard, and the Blu-ray drive will not work with a different board. -------------- I understand however my daughterboard is not on the bottom of the blu-ray drive it must be on the inside. Is there any advice out there on how I go about doing this as I am not sure what I am doing???? If someone could post a link or any tips it would be greatly appreciated.

    jimmy -

    When I received my new drive there was a sheet that said you could keep the old boards but you have to 'flash' them with the ps3's digital information. Currently trying to figure out how.....

    Cheffy -

    My CECHH01 has its blu-ray drive encased in a shield plate. Only one ribbon cable is visible. (The one we have to disconnect). Mine had some tape over it.

    Also, I used a spudger instead of my nails.

    Philippe Morin -

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    • Pull the control board ribbon cable straight up and out of its socket on the motherboard.

    Some PS3 versions do not have a separate control board, since the buttons and LEDS are located on the motherboard (for example, in my PS3 model CECHG04). In this case steps 10, 11 and 13 are not applicable.

    markp -

    This is also true for my CECHH01. ?‍♂️

    Philippe Morin -

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    • Remove the two 12 mm Phillips screws securing the control board to the lower case.

    • Remove the control board and its attached cable from the PS3.

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    • Remove the following eight screws securing the motherboard assembly to the lower case:

    • Seven 12 mm Phillips screws (ph2)

    • One 30 mm Phillips screw

    On my machine (fat PS3 with no card reader and 2 USB ports), there is no upper right screw to remove.

    alansliu -

    That 30mm screw is the one lower down under the power cable, not the higher up one with the embossed arrow pointing at it.

    James Beegle -

    Hey guys, that red and orange you are using are not at all identifiable as separate colors to some of us with colorblindness. I had to get my buddy to tell me which one was orange and which was red. In the future, it would be most helpful if you stuck to contrasting colors. Great guide, thanks for making it!

    Aksel Barnes -

    Step 17 helps with the 30 mm upper left screw

    joshuavivelavida -

    For any further vision impaired people trying to follow along, the single 30mm screw is in the top left of the image.

    James Beegle -

    Voting up the comments about the orange v red colors on the images, I'm surprised that such a simple edit has not been done over the past three+ years.

    Palfrus Wyrmrest -

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    • Remove the control board bracket.

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    • Use the flat end of a spudger to pry the hard drive bay cover away from the lower case.

    • Remove the hard drive bay cover.

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    • Lift the motherboard assembly out of the lower case.

    My Ps3 was a little different..

    The rear backing plate is connected to the fan shroud beneath the unit that is screwed into the bottom of the case.. And these large chrome pieces attatched to the fan were stuck to the tray that the board is on. Came a part pretty rough, guessing the ps3 got so hot it turned the grease into glue lol

    intotec239 -

    If you already suspect you may have a slightly different PS3 model to the one pictured here STOP RIGHT NOW! Do not try and lift the motherboard off the lower casing if it is not coming easily. On mine, the cooling fan and heat sinks have extra screws directly into the lower plastic case and you will not be able to lift the motherboard out until after you have done Step 27. So skip this step, continue through the guide, skip 18-23 (you probably don't have a memory card reader). After unscrewing the 4 screws in Step 27, pull hard to separate the motherboard from the heat sinks (they will be attached with thermal paste like a glue). Only then will you be able to access the screws to separate the large fan and heat sinks from the plastic lower case.

    Incidentally I totally smashed mine trying to get the lower case off here at step 15 - I broke the screws off, warped the metal on the heat sink and snapped pieces of plastic. But I continued and did the heat gun stuff and it still actually worked!!

    Fat Albert -

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    • Remove the 7.7 mm Phillips screw securing the ground strap to the chassis.

    On my PS3 the ground wire(green/yellow) was actually routed under the bolt for the power supply, so I had to remove the power supply before I could removed the AC inlet

    jorgebustos2254 -

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    • Pull the AC-In cables slightly away from the rear cover for clearance to access the AC-In connector.

    • While depressing its locking mechanism, pull the AC-In connector out of its socket on the power supply.

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    • Pull the AC inlet out from the bottom of the rear cover, minding any of its cables that may get caught.

    I had to loosen the two screws on the perforated cover to get the ground wire out.

    asciimo -

    Had to remove 2 screws (the top 2 screws marked in step 25) to get the ground cable out.

    deuxphoria -

    Like @asciimo and @deuxphoria, I had to loosen the same two screws to get the ground wire out. When you're putting the PS3 back together and you're doing the steps in reverse, it helps to leave those two screws unscrewed during Step 25 and wait until you put the AC inlet back in Step 18.

    hogurt -

    You can put the 2 screws back in step 25, just put the AC Outlet before you put in the back plate. (Do Step 18 before step 19 when you are going in reverse)

    xaviertaylor -

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    • While lightly pulling the rear cover away from the logic board assembly, use the flat end of a spudger to release the clips along the top and bottom edges of the rear cover.

    If going in reverse do this step after step 18, otherwise you will have hard time getting the earth cable routed.

    xaviertaylor -

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    • Remove the rear cover from the logic board assembly.

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    • De-route the fan cables from the plastic finger molded into the heat sink.

    • Disconnect the fan from the motherboard.

    • Pull the connector straight up and out of its socket.

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    • Remove the two 9 mm Phillips screws securing the memory card reader to the chassis.

    Only the very first release of the PS3 used to have the memory card reader. Most recent models do not have it (such as my PS3 model CECHG04). In this case just skip steps 22 and 23.

    markp -

    Also, these screws should be removed in step 5 to prevent breaking the clips that secure the card reader to the top shell.

    screech -

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    • Lift the memory card reader out of the PS3 enough to access its ribbon cable.

    • Flip up the retaining flap on the memory card reader ribbon cable socket.

    • Be sure you are prying up on the retaining flap, not the socket itself.

    • Pull the ribbon cable out of its socket and remove the memory card reader.

    I have a CECHA01 and the card reader is attached to the top cover. Per comments at step 5, the 2 screws mentioned at step 22 are removed at step 5. The ribbon cable mentioned here in step 23 should be removed at step 5.

    Jon Tyre -

    If leaving card reader attached to top shell this step should be part of step 6.

    screech -

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    • Disconnect the DC-In cables from the front of the heat sink.

    • Pull the connector toward the front of the PS3.

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    • Remove the five 9 mm Phillips screws securing the power supply to the chassis.

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    • Lift the power supply by its front edge to clear the two posts attached to the motherboard.

    • Remove the power supply.

    I had a small black wire taped to the side of my power supply. If you have this - remember to remove the tape, first, or you run the risk of pulling the wire out.

    Oliver Clare -

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    • Remove the four 16.5 mm shouldered Phillips screws securing the heat sink to the motherboard.

    • Remove the two brackets held under the screws you just removed.

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    • Lift the motherboard assembly off the heat sink.

    • The heat sink may still be held in place by the thermal paste. If this is the case, gently pry the heat sink away from the motherboard housing. Make sure to not bend the copper piping on the heat sink.

    • Be sure to apply a new layer of thermal paste when reattaching the heat sink.

    • Never applied thermal paste before? Our thermal paste guide makes it easy.

    • If you're following the YLOD repair guide, stay tuned for where to apply the replacement thermal paste.

    so do we apply arctic silver 5 thermal paste to the heat sink pads that attach to the CPU GPU,Or do we only apply thermal paste to the chips /pads CPU GPU ?

    David -

    In some PS3 versions, such as my PS3 model CECHG04, the heat sink is attached to the lower half of the motherboard shield, so in order to remove the motherboard you have to lift the top cover and detach the motherboard from the heat sink.

    markp -

    Yeah, on mine (which is the very first revision of the PS3), you have to add a SUPER heavy amount of thermal paste, for it to even make contact. Odd.

    Christopher -

    Can someone confirm what material the heatsink is made of for those wanting to apply liquid metal (I'm sure as !&&* not taking the risk) but might be of interest to others…

    Jjj -

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    • Remove the three 5.7 mm #0 Phillips screws securing the fan to the heat sink.

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    • Remove the fan from the heat sink, minding its cables that may get caught.

Conclusion

To reassemble your device, follow these instructions in reverse order.

Author

Walter Galan

699383 Reputation

7 comments

Thank you for the help

G Y -

i make thermal compounds. just wondering do i need to use a grease that has silver or is an aluminum based grease good to use

bjornsenjosh99 -

Thanks a lot! It is very useful!

Wing Leung Lin -

I know this is old but what thermal paste should I use today

Shane Rennie -

I recommend artic silver or MX-4 since I heard that it's supposed to last up to 8 years. As long as you don't have to disassemble the console again

Antrone Harris Jr -

My PS3 is 13 years old… Should I replace the thermal paste? (The unit is very clean!)

Philippe Morin -

Principle of thermal paste is to fill the imperfections between the PS3 CPU and the surface of the heat sink.

Dry thermal paste can be okay if your PS3 is not overheating as long as you don’t remove the PS3 CPU cooler.

Sometime, with age, the thermal paste dry and does not make contact enough between the PS3 CPU and the surface of the heat sink. At this moment, the heat is not conduct well, the fan must spin faster to cool down the CPU and this is when you need to replace the thermal paste.

Overheat can also be just caused by a dirty or clogged fan.

When PS3 overheats, it can also shutdown suddenly and need to cool down before to be powered on again.

If you never did this before, you should consider replacing the thermal paste if your PS3 has one of these issues or if you want to improve the thermal conductivity as some thermal paste are more efficient than the one factory installed on the CPU.

Changing the thermal paste is an opportunity to clean the fan.

Low and stable operation temperature help to prevent the YLOD.

Brendan -