Motherboard Disconnection (Screen)

Lay your eReader down so the back cover is facing up.

Insert the flat edge of an opening pick between the frame and the bottom left corner of the back cover.

Push the pick downwards at a slight angle until it slides under the back cover.

Slide the pick toward the bottom right corner to release the clips along the bottom edge.

Remove the pick and reinsert it under the bottom left corner.

Angle the pick flat under the back cover and rotate it around the bottom left corner to release its clips.

Slide the pick toward the top left corner to release the clips along the left edge.

Grip the left edge of the back cover and lift it away from the eReader to release the remaining clips.

Remove the back cover.

The coating is brittle and can flake into many small pieces. Heating the coating helps, but working with it is still a time-consuming process.

The ZIF connector locking tabs are coated in a gel that can jam the hinge and keep the locking tab from completely unlocking. Make sure the tabs are completely upright before disconnecting any cables.

Depending on your repair, you might have to remove the coating from ZIF connectors and their cables.

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the battery connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

Use the tip of a spudger to scrape up the coating along the white battery connector head—enough so you can grab clumps of it with pointed tweezers.

Use pointed tweezers to peel off all of the coating around the battery connector head and its socket.

Insert the point of a spudger under the edge of the battery connector head opposite of the cable.

Lift up the connector with the spudger to separate the rest of the coating and disconnect the battery.

Inspect the connector head and its socket for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

Peel off the coating, heating the area when the coating becomes too brittle.

If your battery comes with stretch release adhesive, follow the next two steps to remove them.

Otherwise, skip ahead three steps to remove the normal adhesive.

Use tweezers to pull on the battery adhesive strip's pull tab until you can grip it with your fingers.

While holding the battery in place, pull the strip out slowly and steadily at a low angle. Give it plenty of time to stretch and un-stick from under the battery.

If the adhesive strip breaks off, try to retrieve it using your fingers and continue pulling—but don’t pry under the battery.

Lift the battery out of the frame and remove it.

If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.

Apply a few drops of isopropyl alcohol under the right edge of the battery.

Tilt the eReader up to let the isopropyl alcohol flow under the battery and wait one minute for it to soften the adhesive.

Slide a plastic card a half an inch (~13 mm) under the top right corner of the battery.

Rotate the plastic card so its short edge sits under the right edge of the battery.

Slide the plastic card under the battery to separate the adhesive and the thin layer of coating.

Lift the battery off the frame and remove it.

If you're transferring the battery to a new screen, inspect the battery for any dents or deformations.

Insert the tip of a spudger under the right side of the power button ZIF connector's black locking tab.

Lift up the locking tab with the spudger to unlock it.

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.

Keep pulling on the cable until the cable comes completely out of its socket.

Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

Peel off the coating along one of the long edges of the power button board.

Use the tip of a spudger to scrape the coating along the base of the power button board—enough so you can grab clumps of it with tweezers.

Use tweezers to peel off the coating on the power button board.

Heat an iOpener and lay it on the power button board for 90 seconds to soften the adhesive.

Insert an arm of pointed tweezers under the edge of the power button board that you separated the coating from.

Slide the arm along the edge of the board to separate enough adhesive to fit an opening pick under the board.

Remove the tweezers and immediately replace it with the tip of an opening pick to prevent the adhesive from resealing.

Slide the pick along the edge of the power button board to separate the adhesive.

Rotate the opening pick under the bottom of the power button board and under its cable.

Slide the opening pick along the other edge of the board to separate the remaining adhesive.

Pull the power button board off the frame and remove it.

Use the flat end of a spudger to lift up the locking tab on the digitizer cable ZIF connector.

Apply a heated iOpener to the digitizer cable ZIF connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

Grip the digitizer cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.

Keep pulling on the cable until it comes completely out of its socket.

Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.

Insert the flat end of a spudger under the right side of the ZIF connector's black locking tab.

Lift up the locking tab with the spudger to unlock it.

Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the display connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the corner of the display cable closest to the charging port.

Pull the cable away from the ZIF connector slowly and steadily at a level angle to separate the coating at the corner.

Repeat the previous step for the other corner until the the cable comes completely out of its socket.

Lift up the display cable and peel off any remaining coating holding it to the motherboard.

Inspect the ends of the cable and the ZIF connectors for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.

Lift the display cable out of the way of the backlight cable underneath.

Use the point of a spudger to lift up the blue locking tab on the backlight cable ZIF connector.

Apply a heated iOpener and lay it on the backlight connector for 90 seconds to soften the coating.

Use blunt nose tweezers to grip the cable close to the head and pull it away from its ZIF connector slowly and steadily to separate the coating.

Keep pulling on the cable until it comes completely out of its socket.

Inspect the head of the cable and the ZIF connector for any remaining coating that could prevent a good connection.

Peel off the coating—heating the cable and the ZIF connector when the coating becomes too brittle.